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Information for teaching staff on living in Sanaa, Yemen, and working at SIS
General
Sanaa is located on a plateau over 7000 feet (2100 meters) in altitude. The weather is quite mild in the winter and not too hot in the summer. The temperature range in the winter months is about 32°F to 75°F (0°C to 24°C). During the summer months it ranges from 60°F to 90°F (16°C to 32°C). It is very dry and dusty with very low humidity and very little rainfall most of the year. When it does rain it can be quite muddy. The rainy seasons are usually in March/April and July/August.
Normally, people dress casually for the school day. A jacket, sweater, or lightweight coat will be needed for the winter months. A heavier coat may be needed for out of country trips during winter months. Most clothing should be of washable fabric (dry cleaners are available, however). Several pairs of comfortable (and durable - lots of rocks) shoes are highly recommended. The Yemeni women are mostly veiled, so out of respect for the culture modest attire is a must. Shorts (for men or women) and sleeveless garments (for women) are inappropriate outside the walls of the home, except for athletic purposes.
The electrical current is 220 volts/50 Hz. Large American appliances (toaster, fry pan, iron, etc.) are not recommended, since they will need a large transformer. Smaller electric items (sewing machine, hair curler or dryer, shaver) can be used successfully with a small transformer (available locally). Radios, video machines, and cassette tape recorders are available at reasonable prices. Some American appliances designed for 60 Hz will not function on the 50 Hz current here, even with transformers (which only transfer the voltage from 220 volts to 120 volts). Thus, it is recommended to purchase most electrical items after arrival.
Electricity costs range from $35 to $60 per month and are paid by the employee.
All school houses have a telephone for which the employee pays the monthly charges. All phones can receive incoming international calls. Outgoing international calls are usually made using Skype. When a person phones Sanaa from outside Yemen the country code is '967' and the city code is '1'. Care should be taken that conversations do not include political or religious content.
A broadband Internet connection (1 Mbps) is available through YemenNet for about $40 per month (with a download limit of 11 GB per month). There is an initial connection charge of approximately $32.00.
All mail is to be sent to the following address:
Sanaa International School
Box 2002
Sanaa, Yemen
Clothing
Most clothing should be brought. Bring hats for sun protection. The selection of hats in Sanaa is very limited. Clothing can be purchased locally, but the selection of styles and sizes is limited. You will find imports from China, Hong Kong, France, England, etc. Shoes tend to wear out more rapidly because of the dust, rocks, and rough roads. Bring shoes appropriate for school paths, which are gravel, not paved. Comfortable shoes are most practical. Dress shoes may be used for evening. It is difficult to find good shoes here, especially narrow or large sizes. Good quality thongs are not available here. Shoelaces are of poor quality. Women's ankle or knee socks are useful for cool weather. Sheer nylon panty hose are difficult to find and high in cost (bring 12 to 15 pairs). Coat hangers (wooden and plastic coated) are available. Fabrics are plentiful, especially polyester and fancy types. The selection of cottons is limited. Some women like wearing longer length skirts and loose long-length blouses.
Cosmetics and Personal Hygiene
The climate is dry, thus shampoo and conditioner for dry hair and lanolin hand cream are suggested. There are several hairdressers who carry on a good business.
Speciality
If there are things that you especially enjoy, bring them. Items that have proven to be desirous: Christmas tree (decorations & lights are available but limited); small gifts for special occasions; wrapping paper and ribbon (available but limited); greeting cards (Not a big variety); alcohol (Two bottles per person can be carried in)
Activities for adults
Creativity and flexibility are necessary to enjoy a social life in Sanaa. The school offers outdoor basketball and tennis to its employees. There are a few regular community activities available. For those wishing to attend church, Sanaa International Christian Fellowship has several meetings in different homes around the city, and there are two Roman Catholic Masses each week. Other activities include a weekly HASH (Hash House Harriers, a Monday afternoon run or 'walk' in the countryside around Sanaa). The (YOS) Yemen Ornithological Society meets twice monthly and also organizes regular bird-watching outings. Several first class hotels provide a nice evening out, dancing, swimming, and various holiday parties. Many local restaurants can be used for a simple inexpensive meal.
The British Club is run by the British Embassy and provides darts, pool and meals. The club is open three days a week. The membership fee for a family is about $400 per year. There are also annual fund raising events such as dinners, dances and desserts in which many employees and expatriates attend.
Recreation clubs are available through the Sheraton, Movenpik, and Sheba Hotels offering tennis, swimming, and an exercise gym. Annual membership is expensive (over $1000 per year for a family), but you can pay for a day visit. A day visit to the Sheraton costs about $18 per adult, and $8 per child.
Travelling Outside of Sanaa
For those wishing to get out of the city, there are amazing sites and scenery to enjoy in Yemen's countryside. Just 20 minutes north of the school you can visit the 'House on the Rock' palace of the former Imam (king). 30 minutes south of Sanaa is Wadi Hamal, a great location for a weekend picnic and walk along a small flowing stream lined with trees.
About an hour north of Sanaa are the villages of Shibam, Kawkaban and Thula. Starting at Shibam, the climb up the mountain to the fortified village of Kawkaban makes an excellent afternoon hike, with stunning views all the way. Two and a half hours west of Sanaa takes you to the beautiful Hiraz mountains. Friendly Yemeni hotels in Manakhah or Al-Hajerah make excellent bases for weekend hikes through beautiful mountains and Yemeni villages.
In addition to the Christmas and Spring breaks, a typical school year includes two or three long weekend holidays that facilitate going slightly further afield. Four hours west of Sanaa takes you to the Red Sea coast. A further hour north is the small port of Al-Salif from which a short boat ride takes you to the Kamaran Island resort. This is a beach-hut resort where you can enjoy amazing snorkling, and excellent Yemeni cooking.
Six hours south of Sanaa is the port city of Aden, where you can stay by the beach in the luxury of the Sheraton hotel, or of the Elephant Bay resort. Further afield, and easier to reach by air, are the cities of Seyun and Mukalla in the Hathramout region, or for the adventurous, the Island of Socotra in the Indian Ocean.
Trips out of Sanaa by road require some forward-planning as the school needs to obtain a travel permission for you from the local tourist police. They wish to be kept informed of the movements of foreigners so that they can help protect you from any unforeseen hazards en route.
To view a slideshow of recent staff trips to Shibam-Kawkaban, and to Kamaran Island, click here.
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Housing
The houses in Yemen are constructed of stone, cement block, or mud bricks finished off with a layer of 'gos' (a white plaster sort of material). The typical Yemeni floor plan has a central entrance room and then additional rooms branching off on either side. Normally the house consists of walls and tile floors with little or no built-in closets or cupboards. Thus, storage space is a bit scarce. The characteristic decorative lattice windows of colored cut glass add a unique style of Yemeni architecture. Most houses in Sanaa have a government water supply. Others are supplied by private water projects. Either way, the supply is not continuous, so water is stored in metal ground tanks and then pumped to similar tanks on the roof. Water from the tap in Sanaa is fine for washing, but should be boiled and filtered before drinking. The school's water supply is taken from deep wells on the school site and is good to drink. The tanks are cleaned and the water tested periodically. Some of the school staff find it convenient to haul containers of drinking water from the school to their homes. Alternatively, there are many water-filtration stations around the city where you can fill containers very cheaply.
Houses in Sanaa have no central heating. During the colder months you may find it necessary to wear a warm sweater or lightweight jacket part of the day and during the evening hours. If the winter is extra cold, a space heater can be purchased locally. (The classrooms at school can also be cold during this time.)
The school's rented houses are enclosed with a wall providing space to park a car. The school provides basic furnishings for teachers, however you will probably need to supplement these with locally purchased items to meet your individual desires and add that homey touch to make it yours. Rugs, both area and throw, are available locally in various qualities and prices. Material for curtains can also be purchased at reasonable prices. (Rugs and curtains are not furnished by the school).
Following is a list of items furnished in the houses:
Gas cooking stove, Refrigerator, Kitchen cabinet, Water heater, Dining table with six chairs, Hutch or cadenza (side board), Curtain rods, Bed (standard double, queen or single), Bedside stand, Wardrobe, Couch, Occasional chair, Coffee and end tables, Washing machine
Automobiles
The price of petrol is about 30 cents per liter. You will be required to obtain a Yemeni driving license. The school helps to expedite this process shortly after arrival. You need only to bring a stateside license. The cost for a five-year license is about one hundred dollars. The school has a number of vehicles available for teachers. Teachers purchase these when they arrive, and sell them back to school when they leave.
Medicine
Any special medicine prescribed should be brought with you. There is a good selection of drugs for minor illnesses, available without the need of a prescription. (Feel free to write and ask about the availability of a particular medecine). A full spectrum of vitamins is hard to get. If a supply is brought, vitamins without fluoride are recommended. Sanaa has a naturally high fluoride content in the water, which is adequate. Malaria is not a risk in Sanaa because of its altitude. Before travelling to coastal areas, you may want to consider taking anti-malarial medication. Various options are available locally, but not Malarone which may be the preferred choice, especially for children.
Food
It is expected that you will live in Yemen off the local economy. Many products are now available in Sanaa. Grocery stores are stocked with goods from Europe and Asia as well as from the USA. There is also an increasing production of foods locally. Imported food items are expensive, varying greatly with respect to the country of origin. Costs are often about double the prices in the USA. Selection is varied and somewhat limited, but the basics are always available. Mixes and instant foods are not available, so an adjustment to cooking from scratch is a must. The local plain yogurt is good. It is a good substitute for sour cream. A few flavors of fruit yoghurt are available, but are not top-quality. All milk products, both powdered and reconstituted are available. Some pasteurized fresh milk and UTH milk are available. A variety of breakfast cereals is available but they are relatively expensive. Sanaa has fresh bread and pastries available in local bakeries. There are several fruit and vegetable markets in Sanaa, which are relatively cheap. There are also good fish markets that are cheap.
Even though much is available, the following optional items are among those most named as wanted: spices (marjoram, basil, beau monde, allspice, cream of tartar), maple flavor, sugar-free items, seasoning mixes (for spaghetti, tacos, etc.), salad dressing mixes, sure-jell, spot remover (not aerosol), chocolate chips, kool-aide, decaffeinated products (coffee, tea, etc.), powdered non-fat milk, pork products.
Items for Children
It is possible to find most any article of clothing in Sanaa for children. Prices vary according to quality of item purchased. Things that are good/standard quality (US, European quality) are very expensive while most imports from Southeast Asia, though poorer quality, are very reasonable.
Toys, too, are available at reasonable cost but these are POOR quality imports that don't last long. There are well-stocked stationery stores for watercolors, colored pencils, school cases etc. These may be a bit more expensive than western standards but are not unreasonable. It may be helpful to bring good sturdy toys with you, perhaps saving some for special occasions, like birthdays and Christmas. Children's backpacks are available but it's recommended that you bring durable lunch boxes.
It is also recommended that your child bring his or her own personal music (CD's, cassettes) because most popular artists are not available in Sanaa. You may also want to bring a supply of small toys that may be given as birthday gifts when your children are invited to parties. Party favors for your own children's party may prove useful.
Activities for Children
Children's social life centers around the school and that provided through the family and community.
Sanaa International School offers afternoon activities twice a week on Sundays and Tuesdays. These activities change from term to term and include things like: arts and crafts, sports, stamp collecting, hiking, gardening, cooking, etc. A band may be formed for students who come with instruments. All these activities are offered at the close of the normal elementary school day (1:26 p.m.) to the end of the secondary school day (3:00 p.m.). There are generally no activities held after school (3:00 p.m.) for elementary students. Older students can participate in track or academic games after school during certain times of the year.
Some families attend the 'HASH' (Hash House Harriers, a running group), Monday afternoon starting at 4:00 P.M.
Classes, such as ballet, modern dance and karate are available. Sometimes local piano teachers can be found, but private lessons for other instruments are very limited.
An Awana program for children ages 6-11 meets on Wednesday afternoons. A Christian Youth Group for students of 12 years and older meet on Wednesday evenings. Sanaa International Christian Fellowship sponsors these activities. If you attend one of their fellowship groups on a Friday (the weekend is Thurs-Friday), availability of a children's program depends on the particular group.
Even though there may not be as many activities offered in Sanaa as in some other places, many find enough activities to keep them busy.
We hope this will help with your preparations to come to Yemen. It has been our experience that those who bring a basic minimum of household supplies and are able to survive while becoming acquainted with shopping opportunities have settled in with greater satisfaction. If you have any questions, please feel free to write for more details.
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